Two IFMGA guides achieved the historic milestone of being the first individuals to reach the summit of Yansa Tsenji (6,567m) in Nepal through a challenging technical route.

On October 28, a remarkable achievement unfolded as Ecuadorian adventurer Oswaldo “Ossy” Freire, aged 50, and American climber Joshua Jarrin, aged 37, successfully reached the summit of Yansa Tsenji (6,567 m/21,545 ft) via a challenging alpine route on the east face.

This historic ascent goes down in history as the first overall conquest of Yansa Tsenji, a peak situated on the border of Nepal and Tibet within the northern Langtang Himal subrange and Langtang National Park. Yansa Tsenji is a subpeak of Shalbachum (6,918 m/22,697 ft), positioned less than two miles to the northeast, directly on the international border.

Previously known as Dragpoche or Dhagpache, Yansa Tsenji had seen only two documented attempts since climbers gained access to it in 2003. The first attempt involved a British party that reluctantly withdrew from the east ridge in 2003 at around 6,100 meters due to technical challenges. Subsequently, in 2010, a Japanese team attempting a line on the south face of the southwest ridge turned back due to perilous rockfall. Freire and Jarrin’s recent ascent marks the first reported attempt on Yansa Tsenji in an impressive 13 years.

Leveraging their expertise as members of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA), the duo dedicated 19 challenging hours to conquer their new path, aptly named "Between Fairies and Unicorns" (ED M4+ WI5+ 90°). Starting their journey from a 5,100-meter base camp at 11:00 p.m. on October 27, they navigated through powder avalanches and rockfall, encountering technical challenges and exposure throughout the entire climb. The triumphant moment arrived at 7:00 p.m. the following day when they reached the summit.

Reflecting on the daring ascent, Freire shared, “We enjoyed every minute of the climb. Despite avalanches and rockfall, we didn’t feel any fear.” He described the route as “the most difficult climb of my mountaineering career and the most exposed and committed ascent I have ever made.”

Embracing an ultralight approach with minimal margin for error, the pair carried only three liters of water between them, along with a handful of energy bars. After their summit victory, they undertook a challenging 10-hour descent to return to their base camp. Showing unwavering determination, Freire and Jarrin, after a brief rest, are already eyeing a new objective—a prospective first ascent of the north face of the nearby Ganchenpo (6,378 m/20,925 ft). The saga of their mountaineering exploits continues, marking a chapter of resilience, skill, and an unyielding pursuit of new summits.